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STEIGER'S 



ELEMENTARY SEWING 



DESIGNS 



ON 



PRACTICE-CLOTH 




> of C 















STEIGER'S MANUAL TRAINING SERIES 



STEIGER'S 

ELEMENTARY SEWING 
DESIGNS 

ON 

PRACTICE -CLOTH 

WITH 

DIRECTIONS AND SUGGESTIONS 



T 



E. STEIGER & CO. 
NEW YORK 







V 



& 









Copyright. 1897. by E. Steiger & Co. 



lilt 1*< >dllCl LOl I. 

Sewing being now generally recognized as an important factor 
in manual training and introduced into the public schools of mosl 
of our largo cities, the want of efficient aids for primary classes has 
been keenly felt. 

The mothers in our country, unlike those in Europe, rarely take 
the time and trouble to show their little ones how to use their 
hands, and only a small number of Kindergartens, which in a meas- 
ure supply this want and teach the use of the needle, have thus far 
been established here. But even where they do exist, two years 
intervene between them and that grade in our public schools in 
which sewing is introduced. We, therefore, find a large proportion 
of children unable to control the muscles of their lingers, and most 
of them have such great difficulty in handling the needle, that they 
are easily discouraged and consider it very tedious to acquire the 
accuracy necessary as a foundation for the work in higher grades. 

"Mechanical repetition invariably excites disgust for any work," 
says Mr. Sluys, the Belgian educator; yet the repetition of stitches 
is necessary in order to acquire dexterity and accuracy. Therefore 
we must make sewing attractive, and how could we do this better 
than by carrying out the ideas of FBCEBEL and adapting them to 
the work in hand. 

The teaching of sewing in the public schools should be educa- 
tional rather than industrial, yet, in cultivating the taste, it is an 
excellent preparation for future industrial work. 

Commissioner W. T. Harris, in his address on "Manual 
Training" to the National Educational Association, says: "If the 
pupil pursues this study (manual training) by the analysis of the 
historical forms of ornament, and acquires familiarity with graceful 
outlines and a genuine taste for the creation of tasteful and beauti- 
ful forms, he has done more towards satisfying the economic problem 



of industry than he could do by much mechanical skill. The great 
problem in the industry of nations has come to be the aesthetic one, 
how to give attractive and ta>teful tonus to productions, so as to 
gain and hold the markets of the world." 

And Superintendent L. S. Thompson of New Jersey corroborates 
this statement in his address to the same Association by saying: 
"There is more of material prosperity and wealth to the nation to 
be gained by the proper cultivation of the taste of the children in 
public schools, than from all the plan drawing that ever has been 
taught." 

The sewing designs, here presented, will be found a great help 
in making the work attractive. By letting the children follow grace- 
ful outlines with pretty colored cottons, we make them enjoy their 
work; and they overcome difficulties without perceiving them, while 
repetition does not in the least weary them. In fact, sewing thus 
taught has in all cases proved a welcome interruption to the mono- 
tony of the regular class work. The children invariably enjoy mak- 
ing pretty things and intelligently discussing the work. 

"It is the design of manual training to lift labor out of the 
realm of drudgery," says Professor WOODWARD, of St. Louis; "it 
seeks to lift labor to an intellectual plane and to free it from 
drudgery." 

The accompanying designs have been used for a number of years 
in the public schools of New York City with very satisfactory re- 
sults, even in the most crowded districts and in spite of very large 
classes consisting mainly of children of foreign parentage, more or 
less ignorant of the English language. 

Schools with Kindergartens will find these designs a link be- 
tween the Kindergarten and primary work. 

A good quality of unbleached muslin has been chosen for this 
work, because it is less hurtful to the eyes and the needle pene- 
trates it, more easily than it does the bleached muslin. 

The designs are printed in a clear, init>ri>L-<n outline in order 
to train the child to use her own judgment in regulating the size 
and spacing of the stitches, and because minute stitches mechanic- 
ally, marked out strain the eyes. 



We use these geometric designs because, in addition to their 
educational value, their bold outlines are less injurious to the sight 
than the short lines and curves of pictorial drawings, 

My intention is not to suggest a new course in sewing, but to 
show how these designs go hand in hand with the regular course, 
and add interest to it. 

The following is a brief account of the methods I have employed 
with success in the elementary work of the primary grades. 

Elisa Kornmann. 



Directions. 

Position. 

Strict attention should be paid to the position of the body. The 
child should sit erect. The work should be held at such a distance 
that it is not necessary to bend the head in order to see. 

Pinning the work, holding it close to the chest and resting the 
arms on desk or table, are faults to be avoided, because they are 
conducive to physical injury. 

The light should fall over the left shoulder. 

Drills. 

Needlework drills are action lessons which interest the children 
and make them obedient and industrious, quick and attentive. They 
also make the muscles supple, and teach the - children the names of 
the fingers and the implements, which will prove helpful to them in 
understanding directions in the future. 
Finger drill: 1. Raise right hand. 
" left hand. 

2. Right hand. Raise middle finger. 

" first finger. 
' ' thumb. 
Repeat with left hand. 

3. Right hand. Join tips of thumb and forefinger. Bend middle 
finger towards the thumb and strike the fleshy part of the 
thumb with the middle finger. 

(For the sake of uniformity it is wise to count.) 

4. Left hand. Bend middle finger and first finger down to meet 
the thumb. 

(The above drill is in use in the New York Public Schools.) 



— (i 



Thimble drill: Take the thimble up with the left hand and place it 
on the middle finger of the right hand. 

Drill on parts of thimble: top, back, front, sides. 
Needh drills: 1. Take needle with the right hand. 
Drill on point, eye, shape. 
2. Hold the needle between thumb and first finger, a quarter of 
an inch from the point: bend the middle finger and rest the eye 
of the needle on the back y>( the thimble near the top. 

3. With the thimble push the needle forward 
between thumb and first finger (Fig. L); then 
with the tip of forefinger of left hand push 
it back into position. 

(Repeal this drill a few times to gel the motion of 
the needle.) 

l. Hold the cloth over the firsl finger of the 
left hand, keeping firmly in place with the 
thumb as in Fig. 2. 




/•'/,/. 1 




Fig. 2 

5. Hold the needle as in Pig. l. the point directed towards the 
left shoulder, and pass it through the cloth as in taking a 
stitch. (Fig. 2) 

Count: One. to push the needle through the cloth. 
Two, V draw the needle. 

6. To thread the needle: Twist the end of the cotton tightly be- 
tween thumb and forefinger oi' the right hand. 

Hold the needle between thumb and forefinger of. the left 
hand, a little below the eye, so that the eye can be clearlj seen. 
Push, the thread through with the right hand. 



— 7 — 

(In largo classes orders must be given in tins way for the sake of 
uniformity; 1 >ut I do not sec any objection to holding the thread in the 

left hand and pushing the eye of the needle over it With the righl hand. 

In rooms where the Htdit does not fall in the right direction, or when a 
thread is nearly used up, the latter method is even preferable.) 

After threading the needle repeat, drill No. 5, passing the 
thread over the little finger. (Fig. 3) 




m g . 3 

Making a knot: Take hold of the end of the cotton with the thumb 
and forefinger of the left hand. With the right hand wind it once 
around the forefinger, pass the forefinger down the side of the 
thumb, pressing tightly and twisting it at the same time; then pull 
it down with the middle linger, holding the thread firmly with the 
right hand. 
To avoid wearying the pupils these drills should be interrupted 

by talks about needle and thimble, thread and cloth, etc. 



I. Basting. 



Explain the use and object of basting. Illustrate on blackboard 

and on demonstration frame, or on a large piece of soft material 
with coarse needle and worsted, showing even and uneven stitches. 
Emphasize the necessity for evenness. 



— s - 
Rule: Take up on your needle as uiueh eloth as you pass over. 




The first line of the basting piece should be begun with a knot; the 
stitches made as indicated by the lines and spaces and finished with a 
backstitch. The dotted line should be sewed in the same way. (Fig. 1) 
The third line is to be sewed evenly without guide in spacing; and 
the last three lines both straight and even without any guide lines. 



II. Running. Simple Geometric Figures. 

Explain in the same order as before: use, object, rule, begin- 
ning, ending. 

Review the rule of the even basting stitch and show by illus- 
tration and demonstration that the running stitch is a small bast- 
ing stitch. 

Start with a knot on the first figure of Design II, allowing 
large stitches at first, and fasten by sewing over the first three 
stitches, as indicated in Fig. 5. This gives the idea of piecing the 
thread as well as of making a neat fastening. 

In sewing the next three figures there should be a gradual re- 
duction in the size of the stitches, and the last figure on the square 
should be executed as well as can be expected, considering the age, 
ami general ability of the child. 



— 9 — 



t 


v ^ * 


1 


^-^ \ 


1 


\ 


1 


\ 


1 


1 


\ 


/ 


\ 


1 


\ 


/ 




Fig. 5 
It has been found encouraging to the children to use cottons of 
various colors as a reward for improvement. 

III. Geometric Designs. 

These designs are intended to teach greater accuracy and dex- 
terity in handling the needle, without wearying the little sewer. 
The simpler ones should be given to the slower children, and the 
more elaborate ones to those who are more advanced. Children with 
weak eyes should receive those with bold, simple outlines and should 
not be required to make small stitches. 

It is advisable to let the children use their own taste in the 
selection of colors, and to call their attention to the geometric 
forms of which the designs are composed. A variety of colors may 
be used in this way. No. 24 offers a good opportunity for using 
the six colors of the spectrum. 

After this preparation there will be little difficulty in taking up 
the running seam and overcasting. 



— 10 



Running Seam. 

In ever}' new lesson go to work as indicated in previous lessons. 
Illustrate on blackboard and demonstration frame or cloth. Develop 
use ami object ami show beginning, ending and piecing the thread,. 

Baste two strips of muslin together about a quarter of an inch 
from the edge. Keep edges even. Sew a line of running stitches 
below the basting. Begin and finish with two backstitches and have 
t lu* children understand why a knot is not desirable in sewing. Join 
i he thread as taught in the figures, by sewing over the last three 
stitches. 

Cutting: Here the use of the scissors should be taught. Lei 
the children first tr\ cutting on paper and, to make the lesson in- 
teresting, lot them out straight and bias lines and strips, also a 
gore. They will like to cut the pattern of a doll's skirt, which they 

can easily sow after thev have completed tin* running seam. 

After this let them trim the edges of the seams for overcasting. 

Overcasting: Make a small knot 
at tin* end vl' the thread; hide it 
between the two edges by insert- 
ing the needle through the one 
edge o( the seam nearest to yon, 
an eighth of an inch from the edge. 
Hold the edge o\ the cloth slant- 
ing over the cushion ol' the let't 

forefinger, keeping it in place with 

the thumb. (Fig. 6 
Bring the needle 
through from the 
back, holding it 
slanting as in Pig. 
7. 'fho stitches 
should be an eighth 
c\' an inch deep, 
half the depth of 
the scam, and fas- 
tened by 'a -mall 
backstitch. 





1 1 



Stitching or Backstitching. 

Begin as in running. Rule: Stitcb back over two threads and 
forward under four. Modified for the children: Stitch back close to 
the previous Btitch and forward under twice as much. (Figs. 8 .*v 9) 




Fig. 8 (Bight side). 




Fhj. '.) (Wrong si. I 



IV. Historic Borders for Stitching. 

Those borders being composed entirely of straight linos, aro 
admirably adapted for teaching the backstitch. Again follow the 
sunn; plan as before, giving the backward children and those with 
weak eyes the very simple ones and the more elaborate ones to the 
apt pupils. Thus the class will be kept together. 

Nos. 1— T are Egyptian, 8 is Old Italian, Norman, 10—18 
Greek, and 10 and 20 are Chinese. 

brief historic sketches of the peoples and times that produced 
these designs will prove both interesting and instructive. 



- 12 — 

Backstitched Seam. 
Proceeding in the same manner as in the running scam, a good 



Fig. 10 

backstitched scam can be obtained without great difficulty. (Fig. 10) 
Begin and finish with a double backstitch, and join the thread either 
by sewing over the last lew stitches or else have both the end and 
the beginning of the thread fastened on the wrong side, by running 
the needle several times through the stitches, forming a cord there 
as shown in Fig. 9. 

V. Curved Line Borders. 

These borders can be used for supplementary work in running, 
backstitching or outlining; they are especially adapted to the latter, 
which is easily taught, being only a variation of the backstitch. (Fig. 11) 




Fig. 11 

Designs III, IV and V will also he found serviceable in the 
higher grades for practice and supplementary work in buttonhole 
stitching and Kensington outline work. 

They are prepared specially for that purpose on line white India 
linen. 



— 13 — 



French Fell or Bag Seam. 

Baste two strips of muslin together an eighth of an inch from 
the edge with their wrong sides together. Sew a line of running 
stitches below. Trim as close to those as can be done without caus- 
ing the material to ravel. 

Turn the seam over, crease the edge close to the stitches and 
sew again an eighth of an inch below the edge, using one running 
and one backstitch, thus: Begin with a double backstitch; make one 




Fig. 12 

running stitch; go back over the running stitch and make another 
running stitch forward and so on as shown in Fi.'>r. 12. 




Fig. 13 
It will look like stitching on the side held toward you in sew- 
ing and like a double even running stitch on the right side. (Fig. 13) 



14 — 



As supplementary work a small bag can be made either of the 
borders or of other material. 

Overhanding. 

Take two strips of muslin, fold the raw edges down evenly 
about a quarter of an inch wide, and baste them together with the 
raw edges on the outside. Hold the needle with the point towards 
you and insert it at the right hand end of the strip nearest to you, 
taking up only two threads of the material. Carefully draw through 
the thread, leaving about half an inch; hold this end down with the 
thumb of the left hand and sew the first few stitches over it. In 

sewing hold the needle always at 
right angles to the cloth, the point 
towards the chest, and take up as 
little as possible of both edges. The 
position of the left hand is shown 
in Fig. 14. 

Sew the stitches close and even 
and have them cross the edges in 
slanting lines. When the seam is 




Fig. 14 




XIW^^^v^^^^^^WIV^ 




Fig. 15 



opened the stitches must be perpendicular to the edge on the right 
side. To finish, fasten the thread by sewing back over three stitches 
so as to form crosses. 

In piecing the thread see that the end of the cotton comes be- 
tween the two edges. Pass the needle through the edge nearest 
you and hold both ends of the thread down in the same manner as 
in the beginning, sewing a few stitches over them. (Fig. 15) 

Open the seam, crease it flat, trim the edges and overcast. 

For supplementary work see "Suggestions." 

Hemming-. 

Fold and crease hems of different widths and baste them near 
the turned-down edges. 




Fig. 16 

Insert the needle under the fold as in Fig. 16, draw the thread 
through carefully, leaving a little end 
to be tucked under the fold and fas- 
tened with two tight stitches. Hold 
the cloth over the forefinger of the left 
hand as shown in Fig. IT and take up 
a few threads under the fold and a 
few threads of the fold (Fig. 18), hold- 
ing the needle as nearly as possible par- : A 
allel to the hem, the point crossing 
over the thumbnail of the left hand. Fig. 17 

Make the stitches close together and space evenly. (Fig. 19) 




10 



For fastening sew twice over the last stitch. 




Fig. 19 (Wrong side). 
To join the thread, finish the last stitch so that the end of the 
thread is under the fold. Insert the needle as at the beginning 
(Fig. 20), tuck the ends of both threads under the fold and, holding 
them well down with the thumb of the left hand, fasten them with 
the next few stitches. 




Fig. 20 

For supplementary work hem squares, small bibs and aprons. 



Fell or Flat Seam. 
Place two strips of muslin together, one edge an eighth of an 




Fig. 21 

inch below the other and baste an eighth of an inch below the lower 
edge. Sew close below the basting, making one running and one 
backstitch as in the French fell. 

Take out the basting, trim the edges and crease the seam so 
that the wide edge covers the narrow one. Hem down the top 
edge (Fig. 21), tucking the edge under with the point of the needle 
as you go along, and hold the forefinger of the left hand well under 
the seam to prevent puckering. 

Materials. 

Steiger's Elementary Sewing Designs, Series I to V. 

Some unbleached muslin of good quality, like that used for the 
above. 

Scarlet or blue cotton, No. 50, for basting, seams and hemming. 

Cotton, No. 40, of various colors, preferably orange, yellow, green 
and violet, for outlining figures. 

Needles: Nos. 1 and 8. 

Thimbles. 

Scissors. 








— 18 — 



Suggestions. 

The work of each child may be effectively 
and systematically arranged in a '-sampler," 
thus: — 

Baste I and II together. 

Unite III to II by means of a running seam 
and IV to III by means of a backstitched seam. 

Make a French fell or bag-seam seven inches 
long, using similar unbleached muslin. Add 
another strip to this by means of an overbuild- 
ing seam with the rough edges turned down 
and overcast and still another strip by means 
of a fell. 

Hem both these pieces, top and bottom, and 
overhand them together. Add in the same man- 
ner the outlined border V and outline the name 
of the child on one of the plain stnps. 



In mission, industrial or private schools, 
where the children are allowed to take their 
work home, the designs may be utilized in 
various ways. 

The squares neatly fringed will serve as pin- 
cushion covers, or as mats or table-covers in 
dolls 1 houses. 

The squares of a class will make a pretty 
quilt by simply sewing them together or by al- 
ternating them with strips or squares of plain 

material. 

Two borders sewed together with French 
seams and laced with a strip of colored ma- 
terial, through which a string may be drawn, 
will produce an attractive button-bag. 



— 19 — 

A pretty memorandum book or laundry list may be made by 
mounting two borders on cardboard, lining them, overhanding the 
edges neatly and uniting them at the backs by means of a half-inch 
ribbon to which may be fastened paper and pencil; by furnishing 
this cover with envelopes neatly labeled a convenient receptacle for 
recipes or scraps will be produced. 

Four borders and one square mounted on cardboard, lined, the 
edges overhanded and properly joined to a square of the same size 
covered with lining, will make a pretty work or handkerchief-box. 



The following 

Books on SeAAriiig 

are especially recommended: 

Elizabeth Rosevear. Textbook of Needlework and Cutting out, 

with Method of Teaching. Illustrated. (London) Cloth $2.40 
Amy K. Smith. Needlework for Student Teachers. Intended for 

the use of Pupil Teachers, Scholarship Candidates and Certificate 

Students. Illustrated. (London) Cloth $1.40 
Agnes Walker. Manual of Needlework anil Cutting-out, specially 

adapted for Teachers of Sewing. Students and Pupil Teachers. 

Illustrated. (London) Cloth $2.00 

Guide pratique pour l'enseignement des travaux a l'aiguille, 
eonforme" an Programme du Gouvernement par une maitresse de 
l'Ecole Normale. (Naniur) Boards $1.25 

31. Du Caju et E. Cornelis. Les travaux a l'aiguille a l'ecole 
normale et a l'ecole primaire. Guide a l'usage des eleves insti- 
tut rices, des maitresses d'ouvrage et des aspirantcs au Diplome et 
au Certiticat de Capacity. Premiere partie. (Bruxelles) $L00 

Elisaheth Altmauu. Der Handarbeitsunterricht fur Madchen. 
Illustrirt. (Langensalza) Boards $0.45 

J. Legorju. Leitfaden zur Ertheilung eines griindlichen Hand- 
arbeitsunterrichts in Schulen. Illustrirt. (Cassel) Cloth $1.65 

Agues Schallenfeld. Praktischc Anweisung zur Ertheilung des 
Handarbeitsunterrichts. 3. u. 4. Stufe: Das Niihen, einschliesslieh 
das Zeichnen, Sticken, Zuschneiden, Stopfen und Ausbessern der 
Wasche. Illustrirt. (Frankfurt) $0.55 

E. Wachter. Das Musterzeichnen als Grundlage fiir die weib- 
liche Handarbeit. Zeichenblatter fiir Schule und Haus. Mit 7 
Wandtafeln. (Leipzig) $5.50 



In addition to the above we keep a very large assortment of 
other Books on Needlework and kindred subjects, for a list of which 
we refer to our Catalogues Nos. 23, 24 and 28. 



E. STEIGER & CO., 25 Park Place, NEW YORK 



Particular attention is invited to the following 

Object Teaching Charts 

representing the animals and plants from which materials for sewing- 
are derived, viz. : 
Sheep, a large picture of a sheep with a lamb frolicking in a 

pasture and a shepherd with his fold and dog in the background. 
Silkworm, illustrating the metamorphosis of this useful insect 

from the egg to the imago, particular prominence being given to 

the cocoon. 

Both the above are chromolithographed plates, about 2X3 feet, mounted 
on strong paper with linen edges, and eyelets for hanging. Price $0.80 each. 



Cotton Plant, showing a branch of the plant with flowers and 
leaves; the pod and various other parts of the plant being repre- 
sented separately. 

Flax, showing a flowering as well as a fruit-bearing plant, com- 
plete, in natural size, and parts of flowers as well as fruit and 
seed magnified. 

Hemp, showing the entire plant with flowers and fruits. 

The preceding 3 charts belong to the series of Steigee's Botanical 
Wall Charts, chromolithographed plates, 22X30", with linen edges and 
eyelets for hanging, mounted on heavy paper. Price $0.80 each. 



Cotton Plant, showing a plantation on which cotton is being 

gathered, with the building in which it is being prepared for 

market, etc. The chart also gives a separate picture of a branch 

of a cotton plant in natural size, bearing both flowers and pods. 

This chart is one of the Series of Leutemann's Plants of Commerce 

chromolithographed plates, 26x35", mounted on strong paper with linen 

edges and eyelets for hanging. Price $1.10 each. 



For other charts we refer to the List of 

Steiger's Object Teaching Charts 
and also to 

Sttiger's Kindergarten Catalogue. 

Both these catalogues will be mailed free on application. 



E. STEIGER & CO., 25 Park Place, NEW YORK 



Steiger's 



Elementary Sewing Designs. 



1 sheet (1 square yard) Muslin, Series I (40 piece.-) $0.20 

1 " " " " " II (25 " ) - 0.20 

1 " " " " "III (25 different geometric 

designs) - 0.35 

1 " " " " " IV (20 different borders, 

composed of straight lines) and V (20 different borders. 

composed of carved lines) - - 0.35 

1 sheet (1 square yard) India Linen, Series III (25 pieces) 0.65 
1 " " " " " " IV and V (40 " ) 0.65 

1 envelope containing 5 Designs, assorted, 1 of each Series. 

4 pieces of unbleached Muslin, each 3x1", 20 yards Cotton, 

assorted colors, and 2 Needles — - - 0.20 



Book of Instructions: 

Steiger's Elementary Sewing Designs 

on Pract ice- Clo th, 

giving full instructions regarding the holding of the needle, 
the stitches, etc., etc., (19 pp.) including envelope with 
contents as above _____ 0.35 



1 yard unbleached Muslin, special quality (to be used for prac- 
tising seams) - - - 0.10 
1 spool (200 yards) No. 50 Cotton (red or blue) 0.05 
1 " u u "40 " (orange, yellow, green or 

violet) - - 0.05 

1 package (25) Needles (No. 7 or 8) 0.05 

Wa^ The above will be sent prepaid by mail upon receipt of 
price. Postage Stamps will be accepted for small amount.-. 



E. STEIGEK & CO., 25 Park Place, NEW YORK 




E. STEIGER & CO. 

3 5 Park Place, 
NEW YORK. 



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